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TRAVEL

231

April15

#4 The Oyster Box

I recently took my South African-born

grandmother to this beachfront hotel

north of Durban to celebrate her 85th

birthday – what a perfect place! She

regaled me with tales of the iconic

lighthouse, while the opulence of The

Oyster Box itself took her back to her

youth of high teas and dinner dances.

Today, a pianist still plays in the Palm

Court while china cups are clinked,

and fruit skewers are served to guests

lounging on red-and-white deck chairs

beside the pools. The quirky brass

Dolphin Bell still ignites excitement as

guests ring it when they spot dolphins

frolicking in the Indian Ocean breakers.

This is a charming hotel that is mature

and grand, yet fresh and engaging. I have

visited here on other occasions with my

young family, and they’ve been equally

impressed, delighting in the free-flowing

milkshakes, poolside games, and easy

access to the beach below to play on the

sand and explore the abundant sea life

in the rocky coastal pools.

The original cottage, “The Oyster

Lodge”, was built on these grounds

in 1863. Made of Burmese teak,

corrugated iron and reinforced concrete,

it was originally used as a navigational

beacon and later as a tea garden and

then a restaurant, before opening as

The Oyster Box Hotel in 1954, on the

site next to the lighthouse.

In 2006, Stanley and Bea Tollman of

Red Carnation Hotels purchased the

rundown property. It was their vision

to restore and develop the hotel to its

original glory; they wanted to keep the

authentic period touches while bringing

it into the 21st century.

The hotel we see today is a fitting tribute

to their vision. While a number of the

original features remain intact in the new

structure, the hotel has, for the most part,

been rebuilt: fromthegrand revolvingdoor

at the entrance, to the reception and foyer

with its terrazzo tiles, familiar wrought-iron

balustrade and original, inlaid hand-

painted tiles and friezes. The recognisable

black-and-white checkerboard floor has

been re-instated throughout.

The lighthouse on Umhlanga beach

was completed in 1954. It stands guard

over some of the most treacherous waters

of SouthernAfrica, warning ships of hidden

dangers, but also welcoming ships sailing

into the safety of the Durban harbour. The

circular tower, paintedwhitewitha redband

at the top, rises 21metres above thebeach.

Umhlanga Lighthouse has never had a

keeper; TheOyster BoxHotel, originally the

first beach cottage in the area, has always

acted as its official warden and custodian.

In fact, in the days before the lighthouse

was built, the red painted roof of the hotel

served as a beacon for ships.

oysterboxhotel.com