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TRAVEL

234

April15

The snorkelling

It was the starfish that lured me in;

the sand flat was positively seething

with the tiny creatures. It was a very

positive sign that the snorkelling in

front of the resort might be excellent.

So before the suspense killed me,

I waded in. Nervous of squashing

the abundant coral, I quickly slid

into knee-deep water to swim the

rest of the way to the reef drop-off.

The shallows offered up a collection

of fish that any large aquarium

would be delighted to host, and I

congratulated myself on choosing

so well. The house reef at Bunaken

Cha Cha was officially

amazing

.

Dusk was approaching, and

many of the reef creatures were out

and about, feeding. In the first five

minutes alone, I came across more

outlandishly coloured tropical fish

than I could have imagined. Then I

spied a larger shape materialising

from the gloom, and recognised the

lackadaisical, flowing tail movement

of a shark. The sleek, harmless and

perfectly sculptured black-tip reef

shark inspected me before darting

behind an enormous coral and out of

sight. I was so excited to see a shark

here, as I’m aware that the shark-fin

trade is making them harder to find.

Although some illegal fishing still

takes place, it seems that Bunaken

Marine Park is largely succeeding in

protecting its inhabitants.

We had the resor t’s large

snorkelling boat all to ourselves.

Our guides showed us the best

places and even entertained our

kids on board the boat when they

got tired. Our favourite snorkelling

site was “Turtle City”. The moment

we flopped into the water, our guide

was pointing out turtles, which were

often located just over the reef

drop-off. As we coasted along the

surface, the beautiful star-shaped

motifs on the backs of the ancient

creatures were illuminated in the

bright sunshine, with a background of

dusky, unending blue as a backdrop.

Our kids were able to easily swimwith

the turtles as they peacefully finned

along, feeling no danger from us.