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TRAVEL

227

April15

#1 Fordoun Hotel & Spa

Flying into Durban, you can see why

this part of South Africa is known for its

rolling hills and its proximity to the warm

Indian Ocean. This area was home to

the infamous King Shaka, after whom

the airport is named. Round thatched

rondavels

(huts) dot the terrain – a part

of the Zulu way of life.

A trip to Fordoun Hotel & Spa offers a

glimpse of the country’s ever-changing

landscape as you drive approximately

two hours inland, towards the

Drakensberg mountain range (named

for the dragon’s back it resembles).

Fordoun isa remarkableestablishment.

A renovated dairy, this family-run spa

takes wellbeing to a whole new level

on a farm reminiscent of the English

countryside. The spa here has been given

an innovative twist with the introduction

of a traditional

sangoma

(healer); these

people are alchemists of medicines

from indigenous plants, with rituals that

include the throwing of bones.

The healer at Fordoun is the

remarkable Dr Elliot Ndlovu, whose

indigenous garden includes plants that

act as either stimulants or relaxants,

and which are used by the spa. Dr

Ndlovu believes in the preservation

of Africa’s indigenous flora, in the

strength of community, and in Ubuntu,

the philosophy that the universal

bonds of humanity are what bind

us. His tales of ancestral apparitions

may be challenging for some, but his

unwavering belief in African traditional

healing has endeared him to many

former cynics, and led to consultations

with Oscar nominees, a meeting with the

British Queen and a visit from a former

state president.

Aside from seeing Dr Ndlovu, guests

can experience the energy of healing

through highly trained therapists within

the tranquillity of Fordoun Spa. While

my treatment had no spiritual aspect,

I did enjoy the indulgence of a body

scrub and massage using mud from

a white mountain in the Drakensberg

– a place of spiritual importance to