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Highlights of Cuba

In 2014 Trinidad celebrates its 500th

anniversary. Stay at Iberostar Grand Hotel or

do a homestay at 200-year-old Casa Colonial

Muñoz owned by horse whisperer Julio Muñoz

who does horseback riding and photography

tours (casa.trinidadphoto.com).

Get off the beaten track in Baracoa, a town that

was isolated from the rest of the island for 453

years.

If all-inclusive resorts are your style, head to the

beaches of Varadero.

Explore Havana’s four districts and its plethora

of live music venues. Go to Coppelia’s for

two-cent ice cream; have a daiquiri at Floridita,

Hemingway’s favourite hangout.

sparkling Caribbean Sea. And sandwiched in between is the

prettiest town of the whole island.

The mix of Moorish, Andalusian and European-neoclassical

architecture is apparent as you hit the cobblestone streets that

have been laid out in an inexplicable fashion. They zigzag

erratically and one is content to wander the beguiling lanes until

walking around in circles becomes too much and it’s time for

a strong mojito. To escape this real life Escher drawing, follow

your ears to the exuberant beats at Casa de la Música, where

crowds gather on the church steps to partake in three of Cuba’s

national pastimes: salsa dancing, rum and flirting.

At times Cuba feels like an insider’s secret. Long known for

its communist rule, its confounding eccentricities and iconic

old-world oddities – American classic cars, cocotaxis, crumbling

buildings – the country is slowly opening up. Recent free-market

reforms have boosted private enterprise. New foreign cars are

for sale, albeit at loco prices.

See it before a gust of change blows through – and

gentlemen, learn from the Cubans: Some sugar and a song

can go a long way.

167

Travel Guide 2014

Farther Afield