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T
hree hours’ drive from
Cape Town you’ll
find the enriching
and remote Kagga Kamma
Nature Reserve, which holds
a fascinating collection of
small creatures, antelope,
wildebeest, and ostriches.
This is a place to escape
from modern life, and to
marvel at the weathered
sandstone formations and
craggy rock outcrops which
dominate the expansive open
terrain, with only insects and
birds peacefully interrupting
the silence.
Human history adds to
the uniqueness of Kagga
Kamma: you can view several
well-preserved and interesting
Bushmen rock paintings that
have survived 4,000 years
of exposure to the elements.
It’s currently accepted that
many of the rock paintings
relate to the religious beliefs
and practices of this nomadic
people. Our guide gave us
some interesting facts about
how Bushmen lived in this
BY LARA SAGE
harsh terrain thousands of
years ago, using indigenous
fynbos plants for everyday
meals, medicine, and to
interact with their ancestors
and subconscious through
hallucinatory trance dancing.
Bushmen focused on positive
energy and didn’t carry the
baggage of modern ages.
Without possessions, their
needs were simple, and they
apparently existed with an
ease that our generation finds
hard to fathom.
We also enjoyed the
expertise of our field ranger
who took us on an open
vehicle drive where we
saw two types of antelope,
the graceful Gemsbok and
white-faced Bontebok.
Astoundingly, Bontebok were
hunted down to the last 17
animals last century, but
through carefully protecting
this endangered species,
numbers are back up – to
around 5,000 in the Cape.
The accommodation at
Kagga Kamma is simple
and creative, with thatched
rondavels (round huts) and
cave rooms built unobtrusively
into the rock. The views are
phenomenal. Despite the arid
setting, inviting swimming
pools and yummy meals
gave us creature comforts.
We enjoyed outdoor dining
beside an open fire in the
boma, followed by bright
stargazing, without a city
light in sight.
This place takes your
breath away with its unique
ecosystem and expansive
scenery. I have yet to
experience such quiet solitude
in any other place.
kaggakamma.co.za
BUSHMEN
HISTORY
162
Travel Guide 2014
Farther Afield