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In the Transkei (Eastern Cape of South Africa) is an unspoilt beach resort where
children are entertained, supervised, even babysat, and the hard work of a
family trip is artfully removed, leaving priceless quality time for all.
M
andela’s funeral brought the world’s attention to
this part of South Africa, and millions who tuned in
got a glimpse of the overgrazed rolling hills full of
ambling goats and cattle in this far from touristy region.
The region’s ubiquitous thatched huts are the inspiration for
the accommodation design at Umngazi River Bungalows &
Spa, a family resort and hilltop spa overlooking the sea and
a lagoon. The 69 tastefully appointed huts at the resort come
in various configurations to meet all needs; there are couple
and family units, or deluxe adults-only bungalows.
A highlight of Umngazi is that trained nannies are
available to oversee children on the giant jungle gyms, or
to escort toddlers to their special Kiddies Diner or the Kids’
Club. They’ll even bath them and tuck them into bed while
parents dine under trees strung with lights, or on a wooden
deck overlooking the river. Buffet meals, worthy of top
restaurants, are included in the price.
A ferry shuttles guests across the river to the beach, where
Nguni cows amble onto the shore, drink from the river, and
return to the grassy hillside. During our stay, we whiled away
hours with our kids on the dunes and in the waves. Others
knocked tennis balls on the riverside court, read books on
pool loungers, or played games in the bar.
Our young ones joined the staff at Creative Corner one
day, and came back with pictures and crafts. (The loo-
roll binoculars proved surprisingly useful for watching Fish
Eagles!) There’s fishing for youngsters too, with experienced
ghillies on hand to tirelessly re-bait rods. Other activities on
offer include dune surfing, ball games, sand castle building,
a twilight water boat cruise, crab chasing, marshmallow
bonfires, and children’s movies on beanbags in the pavilion.
There’s Wi-Fi for those seeking it, yet guests seem to
willingly subscribe to the phone-free philosophy in communal
areas; it’s fitting in this environment. The lounge is cool and
inviting with colorful sofas of lime, pink and turquoise, below
low-slung lampshades and driftwood fittings.
It’s heartening to know that this resort employs 170 staff
from the neighbouring communities where the unemployment
rate is high. Guests can have fun while supporting
community projects like Cwebeni
horse riding on the beach. Guided
walks and hikes are arranged to
mangrove swamps, or you can see
local beading crafts in the villages.
My children had the kind of
holiday I recall from my youth:
splashing in the pool, climbing
trees, befriending other youngsters,
and we all left feeling relaxed and
refreshed.
umngazi.co.za
GETTING
THERE:
Six-hour drive from
Durban, or fly in on
a weekly package.
It’s wise to plan
ahead – Umngazi is
so popular that guests
often reserve their
next booking upon
check out.
161
Travel Guide 2014
Farther Afield