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THAILAND

267

November14

GETTING THERE

T h e S i am i s r o u g h l y

equidistant from both

Suvarnabhumi Airport and

Don Mueang International

Airport – about 45 minutes.

The hotel can arrange to

pick you up in a BMW 5 or

7 Series, or a Volkswagen

van for larger parties. For

around US$100, a fast-track

service at the airport can be

organised to expedite the

immigration process, too.

TO BOOK:

Visit

www.thesiamhotel.com.

Seeing the Sights

THE OLD WAY

Tour Wat Pho, Wat Arun and other temples along the tried-and-true tourist route,

fight the clothing police at the Grand Palace, head out of town to the ultra-touristy

Damnoen Saduak floating market, and squeeze in a swing through a museum or two

for good measure.

THE NEW WAY

For Bangkok first-timers, a tour of the riverside

wats

and Grand Palace is in order

(these places are easily accessible via The Siam’s shuttle boat), however, the ultra-

touristy floating market located an hour outside of town should be skipped altogether

in favour of a trip through Bangkok’s actual working

klungs,

or canals. Once known as

the “Venice of Asia”, the

klungs

won’t provide you with the chance to haggle over teak

elephants and neon-painted umbrellas, but you will get up-close views of time-worn

stilted houses, orchid farms, markets (not of the “weekend” variety), mailmen delivering

letters via boat, and vendors hawking ice cream from old rickety boats to children

playing along the riverbanks. The Siam can book a longtail boat and private guide to

snake you down Bangkok’s narrow waterways, where there is barely a tourist in sight.

The neighbourhood around The Siam has plenty to explore, too: an old Khmer

village built directly on top of the Chao Phraya, a traditional medicine clinic, historic

homes, churches, mosques and a 199-year-old Chinese temple where, for a modest

donation, friendly overseers will guide you on how to plant 17 sticks of incense around

the temple to receive the ultimate blessings from above.

And inside the hotel itself is a museum to be enjoyed at any time, day or night. The

owners, the Thai celebrity Sukosol family, use the space to exhibit their astounding

private antique collection that includes relics from 3,600 BC and Tang dynasty treasures

and more recent European pieces. (Note: Most of the really old stuff is safely behind

glass; the rest sits out openly around the hotel emphasising the family’s relationship

of trust with its guests.)

A 2,000-year-old Han dynasty horse and carriage is

one of hundreds of antiques exhibited around the hotel