266 330
TRAVEL
266
November14
Dealing with the Seedy Elements
THE OLD WAY
Sights and sounds that reinforce Bangkok’s international
reputation for back-alley barters and cheap human retail are
inevitable. Just deal with it.
THE NEW WAY
Seedy side – what seedy side? There are virtually no tourists
in the neighbourhood, which means the folks who prey off the
wanton desires of international travellers are nowhere to be
found. The Siam’s closest neighbour? The Crown Prince. And,
having a royal for a next-door neighbour has plenty of perks,
such as a super-secure neighbourhood watch programme, an
absence of high-rise buildings in the area, and no loud parties
to keep you up at night.
What to Eat
THE OLD WAY
Hit up every restaurant and rooftop bar to have been named to a
Top Ten list in recent history. Prices are high, but the food and the
views areworth it, even if fewon thepremises speak awordof Thai.
THE NEW WAY
Go local. By the first morning light, the street directly in front
of The Siam is bustling with street vendors serving up piping
hot breakfasts to palace staff. For lunch, the famous Krua
Apsorn – a hole(ish)-in-the-wall restaurant that David Thompson
counts among his favourites – is just a short boat ride away,
serving dishes that don’t make the menu at traditional tourist
spots; items like cow parsnips, stink beans and river prawns
prized for the red and beige oils that should be enthusiastically
sucked from their heads.
And, okay, if you simply can’t fight the urge for a hotspot,
you’ll definitely be able to hit one of them up without dealing
with a queue or impenetrable reservation list. Chon, The Siam’s
onsite Thai restaurant, tops many a riverside restaurant hot list.
It’s located in three traditional Thai houses (once owned by
Jim Thompson himself) that have been moved from Ayutthaya,
and features a riverside landing perfect for sunset aperitifs.
And for the ultimate dining experience by the Chao Praya,
book a seat at the Chef’s Table, where you’ll get the personal
attention of The Siam’s Aussie chef Jane-Therese Mulry as she
cooks up a private seven-course feast of items like Canadian
scallops, 14-hour braised brisket and deconstructed mango
cheesecake, right next to your table.
Is Bangkok safe right now?
In a word, yes. Though the words “military coup” may
sound shocking to many, it’s not so atypical for Thais.
Overall, it’s business as usual in the Thai capital.
Ingredients
prepared
for a
riverside
cooking
class
Rambutans
piled high
at a local
market