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TRAVEL
228
June14
birth around the same time. Often, the
dominant mother will kill any other young;
we’re hoping that if both give birth at
the same time, she will get somewhat
confused and think they are all hers.
Adding to this, the slightly younger
pregnant female, Brea, appears to be
making a bid for the top spot, judging
by the submissive behaviour being
displayedbyRufio, currently thedominant
female, when in Brea’s presence. Seline
assures us that Rufio is “not a very nice
character”; she is hoping Brea will win out
in the end. Such is life as a diva with an
ambitious younger understudy.
Arriving back at the den as the sun
drops closer to the horizon, it is time
again for weighing. At the most, a heavily
pregnant female weighs in at around
one kilogram, but tonight Rufio isn’t
playing the game, and no amount of
enticement will get her on the scales.
Like a prima donna who has gained
weight, she refuses to confirm it and
turns her nose in the opposite direction.
Sitting up with rounded belly facing
the sunset, her eyes glaze over as she
falls asleep, jerking herself awake each
time she tips off balance. Like an older
relation who’s had one too many glasses
of sherry at Christmas time, she gazes
blearily around to see if anyone has
noticed her nodding off.
Finally, without even a last backward
glance at her adoring fans, she is the
last to disappear into the den as the sun
touches the horizon. And it’s time for us
to leave, too.
Visits to the meerkats only take place
on Sundays and are only available for
guests staying at one of two places
at Vanzylsrus, the Van Zylsrus Hotel
(vanzylsrushotel.com) or Leeupan B+B.
Vanzylsrus is approximately 700km by
road from Johannesburg, or 1,220km
by road from Cape Town on the route to
Botswana and Kgalagadi Transfrontier
National Park. The nearest local airport
is Upington, approximately 400km away.
The meerkats themselves are located
20km outside of Vanzylsrus. It is
possible to get there in an ordinary
family car, as most of the route is on tar,
the balance being a good (but rutted)
dirt road.