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TRAVEL

222

June14

I unpack a small library of magazines

and books (none of which pertain to

“sleep training” in the slightest) and

beginmentallymaking plans for morning

yoga and a “four hands” massage at the

spa. But then… a scream.

A tiny baby finger has found its way

in between the front door and its frame.

There’s blood, uncontrollable wailing

and eventually a fingernail that doesn’t

make it. But the villa butler shows up in a

flash, calls in a hotel medic and helps to

calm down a very upset trio dealing with

what would become baby’s first injury

(we’ve had a few more since).

With children, you come to learn that

episodes like this – not to mention a cold

or a sudden bout of stomach irritability –

can happen anytime, anywhere (though

trains and planes have a particular flair

for attracting these events).

I don’t recall

“strap them on your back and go”-guy

making any mention of this.

But no

matter, with nerves as sensitive as freshly

whitened teeth, I keep my daughter at

arm’s length as we swim, play in the

grass and take buggy rides around the

property courtesy of our two villa butlers,

who act as babysitters, chauffeurs and

travel agents all rolled into one.

They make arrangements for a sunset

beach barbecue in Jimbaran the following

day, and – despite my protestations –

entertain our daughter while my husband

and I enjoy relaxing meals at the Living

Room, the private restaurant available to

guests of the villas and suites. There we

feast on grilled baby octopus with saffron

potatoes for dinner and enjoy calm, waiter-

serviced breakfasts (a welcome break

from the usual bustling buffet) of fresh

beetroot juice, lemon ricotta pancakes,

dim sum and eggs Benedict with crab.

We prefer homemade over jarred (or,

more currently, pouched) food for our

daughter, which adds a further level

of complication to the whole travelling

experience. But it is no problem for the

Mulia staff, who prepare a medley of

veggies, fruit and grains into a puree

or chunky mash at mealtimes. Our first

night there, I request that a plate of ripe

papaya be brought to our room before

bedtime; one arrived, unrequested,

every night thereafter, too.