

TRAVEL
222
June14
I unpack a small library of magazines
and books (none of which pertain to
“sleep training” in the slightest) and
beginmentallymaking plans for morning
yoga and a “four hands” massage at the
spa. But then… a scream.
A tiny baby finger has found its way
in between the front door and its frame.
There’s blood, uncontrollable wailing
and eventually a fingernail that doesn’t
make it. But the villa butler shows up in a
flash, calls in a hotel medic and helps to
calm down a very upset trio dealing with
what would become baby’s first injury
(we’ve had a few more since).
With children, you come to learn that
episodes like this – not to mention a cold
or a sudden bout of stomach irritability –
can happen anytime, anywhere (though
trains and planes have a particular flair
for attracting these events).
I don’t recall
“strap them on your back and go”-guy
making any mention of this.
But no
matter, with nerves as sensitive as freshly
whitened teeth, I keep my daughter at
arm’s length as we swim, play in the
grass and take buggy rides around the
property courtesy of our two villa butlers,
who act as babysitters, chauffeurs and
travel agents all rolled into one.
They make arrangements for a sunset
beach barbecue in Jimbaran the following
day, and – despite my protestations –
entertain our daughter while my husband
and I enjoy relaxing meals at the Living
Room, the private restaurant available to
guests of the villas and suites. There we
feast on grilled baby octopus with saffron
potatoes for dinner and enjoy calm, waiter-
serviced breakfasts (a welcome break
from the usual bustling buffet) of fresh
beetroot juice, lemon ricotta pancakes,
dim sum and eggs Benedict with crab.
We prefer homemade over jarred (or,
more currently, pouched) food for our
daughter, which adds a further level
of complication to the whole travelling
experience. But it is no problem for the
Mulia staff, who prepare a medley of
veggies, fruit and grains into a puree
or chunky mash at mealtimes. Our first
night there, I request that a plate of ripe
papaya be brought to our room before
bedtime; one arrived, unrequested,
every night thereafter, too.