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WINE&DINE

208

July14

How it’s made

In traditional style, the beans are wok-

roasted with sugar, margarine and

sometimes pineapple skin and maize,

to a dark black brown, then ground and

brewed with a sock-like cotton strainer

in watering can-sized pots.

Both

Killiney Kopitiam

and

Yakun

Toast

were started by Hainanese

immigrants; Killiney’s roots go back to

the Killiney Road shop established in

1919, and Yakun’s to 1926. According

to Killiney, its coffee is made from a

blend of Columbian Arabica coffee

beans and Indonesian Robusta coffee

beans “to create an alluring aroma and

mesmerising taste”.

We watched them make a

kopi-C

at

Yakun Toast in Parkway Parade. After

HOW TO ORDER

By default, a coffee or

kopi

(kaw-

pee)

comes with condensed milk

and sugar at the bottom of the

cup. Or you can ask for:

Kopi-C

: coffee with unsweetened

evaporated milk (the C is for

Carnation); but they’ll still add

sugar

Kopi-kah-C

: extra sweet, with

both condensed milk and

evaporated milk

Kopi-o

: black, with sugar

Kopi-kosong

: black, without

sugar

Kopi peng

: sweet white coffee

with ice

Kopi-o peng

: sweet black

coffee with ice

Kopi-o-kosong peng

:

unsweetened black coffee

with ice

To really sound like a local,

order:

Kopi sua

– two regular coffees

Going Local

Craving a strong hit of caffeine in a toe-curling brew? A

cup of local coffee at one of Singapore’s more than 3,000

kopitiams (coffee shops) could set you back as little as 80

cents, says VERNEMAREE–especially if it’s inaheartlands

market or housing estate. At famous chains such as Killiney

Kopitiam and Yakun Toast, it starts from $1.50.

heating the cup by pouring hot water

into and over it, they put in evaporated

milk and sugar, pour in the coffee, top

it up with a little hot water and serve it

with a teaspoon on the side.

Wherever you go, thick white china

cups are mandatory, with or without

the traditional blue-and-white pattern.

If you ask for

tapau

(“takeaway” in

Hokkien), your coffee comes in a scarily

carcinogenic polystyrene cup, or, even

worse, a plastic bag.

What to eat

Standard breakfast fare is theHainanese-

Western

half-boiled eggs, kaya toast

and coffee

set. You’re supposed to

break your own very runny eggs into a

bowl and season them to taste with soya

sauce. Kaya is coconut jam made from

coconut, eggs and sugar.

At the original Killiney Kopitiam outlet

in Killiney Road, it’s mandatory for

your server to slop approximately one

quarter of your coffee into the saucer.

We also enjoy the heart-stopping

screech of orders being relayed from

serving to kitchen staff – preparing

the adrenals for the imminent jolt of

caffeine, perhaps.

We tend to prefer the kaya toast at

Yakun: light brown instead of soft white,

each slice of bread is toasted, then

split into two thin, crispy halves that

are sandwiched with a spread of kaya

and a couple of generous slabs of cold

butter. That said, we’ve had our best-ever

kopi and kaya toast at

Good Morning

Nanyang Café

at Chinatown Point.

And for an East Coast hangover, you

can’t beat the addictively spicy chicken

curry at Killiney Kopitiam in Siglap.

Along with a cup or two of whatever form

of

kopi

takes your fancy, it’s guaranteed

to set you to rights.