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JAPANESE

201

January14

Kushikatsu

(or kushiage)

What it is:

Skewered seafood, seasonal vegetables and

meat: lightly breaded, deep-fried and served piping hot. In

Japanese,

kushi

refers to the skewers and

katsu

to pieces of

meat. First served, they say, in the city of Osaka (previously

known as Naniwa).

Where to get it:

Han, Cuisine of Naniwa at Odeon Towers

6336 2466

What to order:

We’re not keen on deep-frying, for the usual

reasons, but this fine-dining version is worth making an

exception for – it’s not in the least bit oily or heavy. Chef

Seiichiro Arakawa presides over the wok, presenting an

array of delicacies straight from the heat: succulent prawn,

fat scallop, minced chestnut, cheese-stuffed tomato, coral

roe-topped salmon, tender beef, truffle-salt-dusted foie gras

and more. The

kushikatsu

is preceded by an exquisite array

of appetisers and

sashimi

, and followed by sushi, miso soup

and dessert ($160;

kushikatsu

dinners start from $120). Try

the

matcha

tea ice cream sandwich or a zingy grapefruit

sorbet and, of course, the delicious Janpan ($155 a bottle) –

Japanese champagne, get it? – a bubbly sake that’s around

16 percent alcohol by volume.