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VIETNAM

267

May15

abound, every other building appears to

sustain a textile or ceramics business.

Two smart shirts and three pairs of

shorts, all tailored, set me back US$100

in the covered market. God knows

how little they could have been had I

bothered to seriously bargain.

Lazy afternoons float by in riverside

cafés, with views of straw-roofed sampan

boats and palm trees made foggy by the

local tap beer, but the restless can take a

short bike ride to Cua Dai beach, a lovely

stretch of sand that extends north all the

way to booming Da Nang.

The coast between Hoi An and Da

Nang boasts a string of classy resorts

and championship golf courses, but it’s

no epicentre of partying like Nha Trang,

further south.

Unlike elsewhere, development has

been slow and sustainable in Hoi An,

and the floating lanterns that bob

downriver bear at least one wish that it

remains that way.