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TRAVEL
260
October14
SEE
China’s capital is a sprawling mega-city
of 21 million people and five-and-a-half
million cars (not all on the road at the
same time, thanks to the “odds and
evens” number-plate system). But it’s
a city of contrasts: away from the wide
boulevards lined with grand, statement
buildings, which feel more akin to a
European capital, are the narrow, grey
hutongs
, or traditional neighbourhoods.
Many of these historic warrens
are within walking distance of two
of Beijing’s best-known sights: the
Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square.
The central area that includes these
landmarks is one of just a handful that
tourists should concentrate on. Others,
a taxi ride away, include the shopping
and night-life enclave of
Sanlitun
, the
art galleries of quirky
798
district, and
the renowned
Summer Palace
.
Though many hu tongs we re
demolished a decade ago in the rush
to modernisation, the 25 that remain
standing are protected. One of these is
Wudaoying
, close to the Forbidden City
and home to the
Drum Tower
, once the
city’s time-keeper. While many residents
have sold and moved out to high-rise
developments, there’s a certain feel to
the hutongs that no apartment complex
can replicate.
The narrow lanes, high walls and
large, forbidding wooden doors conceal
quaint courtyards shared by residents,
often extended family. Also shared,
by tourists and residents alike, are
the public toilets. (Warning: the low
partitions do not allow much privacy.)
An intriguing custom to follow
when passing through the doorway
of a home or temple is to avoid
standing or stepping on the
wooden threshold, known as
“the edge of difficulty”. It’s meant
to keep out the evil spirits, who
have no knees and cannot jump.
Kids will be fascinated to meet
some of the personalities who call the
hutongs home, but a guide is essential
for translation. Retired cricket-trainer
(the insect, not the bat-and-ball sport),
64-year-oldMr Liu, welcomes people into
his home for insights into the thousand-
year-old tradition of cricket-fighting. He
proudly shows off the champion status
of his crickets, and the accoutrements
required for breeding them. There’s even
a tiny wedding chamber and, of course,
coffins. Hugely popular, the fights are
legal, though gambling on them is illegal.
Eating dumplings for lunch and riding
a rickshaw through the narrow alleys is
a fun way to take in the pace of hutong
daily life. Stunning
Lama Temple
,
Houhai Lake
and
Beihai Park
are
all easily accessible from Wudaoying,
and a boat ride across the lakes of
Houhai or Beihai at sunset is highly
recommended.
In a half day it’s possible to take
in
Tiananmen Square
after a self-
guided visit to the enormous 73-hectare
Forbidden City
(40 RMB, S$8). Get
kitted out with an audio guide (an
additional 40 RMB), which kids above
eight years will enjoy, and be prepared
for walking, walking and more walking.
The “city” itself is 750 meters from east
to west, and 960 meters from north
to south. There are reportedly 9,999
rooms, the moat is 52 metres wide and
there are 308 copper pots that were
used to hold water for fire-fighting.
Once you’ve finished in the Forbidden
City, if it’s a clear day and you’ve still
got some stamina, walk directly across
the road from the northern exit to the
lookout in
Jingshan Park
. The view
over this part of Beijing is stunning and
you will understand, seeing the size of
the Forbidden City, why your feet are
throbbing.
It’s probably sensible to visit Tiananmen
Square before all of this (it’s directly across
from the southern entry point), but if you’re
happy to retrace your steps, or hail a taxi,
it’s interesting to see the square at sunset,
when the Chinese flag is lowered by
soldiers in a patriotic ceremony.
BEIJING
T IP: Seeing any city
with a local resident as guide can make
for a more meaningful – and less stressful!
– experience. The ultra-professional team at
Bespoke Beijing offers set and customised
itineraries around Beijing with knowledgeable
and caring guides who speak excellent English.
(Frank and Michael are highly recommended.)
While the tours are not cheap, they do
maximise the Beijing experience.
bespoke-beijing.com
The Forbidden City