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CAMBODIA

253

October14

It was so good to be able to come back to

the luxury of Raffles and a really wonderful

breakfast (Champagne included in this)

before we set off on our next adventure. This

time it was to the Bayon and Ta Prohm (“the

Tomb Raider temple”); I can’t decide which is

my favourite – the stone faces at Bayon are

so beautiful, but the way nature has worked

its way through the ruins at Ta Prohm and

the colour of that temple’s stones really

fascinate me.

Later we had quite a long session at the

museum; it’s worth getting the individual

headphone sets so you can go at your own

pace. There are also ceramic, silk and silver

shops that are worth popping into; I spent

a fortune on a couple of pieces and I’m not

sure if I paid too much or not! The markets

are definitely value for money – lots of silver

jewellery, cool baggy “elephant” pants that

are the uniform of Cambodian tourists, and

nice crockery and artefacts. Always shop at

night – it’s much cooler.

There are plenty of massage places and we

had a fabulous foot massage, fish spa and

then pedicure, all for about $10. The quality

of the food varies; on Pub Street we had a

great meal the first night and an awful one

the next. My advice is wait until you see where

others are eating – if it’s empty, avoid it. The

food at the hotel was excellent and I wish we

had had dinner there on the second night;

lunch on the first day was excellent and very

reasonably priced.

A

tuk tuk

from Raffles to the middle of town

is around three to five dollars; you can ask

them to wait for you or SMS them when you’re

ready, but there are always plenty around.

I always pay them more – in my way, that’s

my “charity”. And I always try to buy a book

or two from the children selling them on the

streets.

First They Killed My Father

is written

by a lady who is now a lawyer living in the US.

She was seven, I think, when the Khmer Rouge

marched her and her family out of Phnom

Penh, and the book is all about those years

The master bedroom at the villa