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MALDIVES
233
July14
Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru
Leaving Ihuru was a wrench, somewhat softened by
the knowledge that we could come back on the two-
hourly shuttle whenever we liked.
If my Ihuru heron constituted a Nat Geo moment, our
first day at Vabbinfaru was a Nat Geo fiesta. First, we
cooed over the month-old green turtles in the marine
lab next to the dive centre. After that, we swam out to
the turtle cage in the lagoon to watch Shameem feed
the one-year-olds that are being prepared for release
when they turn two. So far, more than 300 turtles
have been bred and released from here. (From the
trackers attached to their shells, it is known that they
survive, often heading off to destinations as diverse
as Indonesia and South Africa before coming home
to Vabbinfaru years later to lay their eggs.)
We also watched Shameem feeding chunks of fish
to the eight or so stingrays that come to the edge of
the lagoon next to the main jetty every day at 5pm.
He knows each by name, and feeds them individually.
This tradition has been going on for the past 13 years;
what they get is only a snack, we’re told, so they aren’t
dependent on it.
Later, after a dinner at a table on the beach, we
strolled to the end of the jetty to enjoy the surreal
sight of a dozen or more ghost-like sharks swimming
endlessly through the clear and shallow water,
attracted by the jetty lights like moths to a flame.
Unlike those proverbial moths, the sharks here are
quite safe. Though sharks abound in the Maldives,
we’re told, not one attack on a human has ever been
recorded. That’s partly because of the types of shark
found here; but also because their natural prey, fish,
are so plentiful.
Like Angsana Ihuru, Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru’s
public areas include a central arrangement of convivial
bar and restaurant, all with airily high thatched roofs
and immaculately raked white-sand floors. A small
minority of guests totter around on high heels, looking
(patently) ridiculous. You could happily go barefoot all
the time, or just dress up for the evening in sparkly
flip-flops, if you liked.
The Banyan Tree accommodation and general
atmosphere is a bit more luxurious than Angsana,
which has a younger, more contemporary vibe.
Though the villas themselves are not much bigger, they
do have a lovely plunge-pool and spa-bath area at the
entrance, and at the back – leading onto the beach
– your own deck, sala, hammock and sun-loungers.
Ours, one of just two Vabbinfaru Villas, even had a
thatched alfresco lounge area. I made a concerted
effort to make use of all the available seating during
the course of our three days, but it wasn’t easy.