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TRAVEL

248

January14

Translation:

Eat, drink and enjoy,

for tomorrow the world will end.

Or in English: “Life is short,

and then you die.” I prefer the

Spanish version though – their

way encourages me to eat

crèma

catalana

(a

crème brulee

-esque

dish) and

mel i mato

(a Catalan

cheese and honey dessert) before I

kick the bucket. Speaking of death,

it’s 43 degrees Celsius today in

Seville. People aren’t sitting by the

water fountains; they are dunking

their heads in them.

It’s mid-afternoon and the hottest

part of the day has hit, so I divert

down a back alley and stumble

upon

Casa Morales

, a dark and

ageing restaurant with the best

salmorejo

(an Andalusian tomato

bread dip),

pisto

(Spain’s version

of ratatouille) and

pringa

(roasted

beef and chorizo) thus far. What

a find. Who could have guessed?

Only me. Oh, and Frommer’s. And

apparently Lonely Planet. And a

group of tourists on a tapas tour that

just marched in.

I’m meeting an acquaintance

named Javier for lunch at

Casa

Robles

. It’s his favourite spot in

town – mainly because of the

revuelto de matanza

, a punchy

dish of scrambled eggs, potatoes

and chorizo. I suggest a bowl of

garbanzo beans and lentils, too. “If

you eat a plate of lentils in this heat,

you’ll die!” he says. Uh oh – there’s

that link to food and death again. I

better let him do the ordering.

A COMER, BEBER,

BAILAR Y GOZAR

QUE EL MUNDO

SE VA ACABAR.

Clockwise from top:

Seville Cathedral at

night; tapas at Casa Morales; spiral steps

of Hotel Alfonso XIII; jerez tasting at Hotel

Alfonso's American Bar; Seville tilework